Yes, yes, yes, we’re in Positano! You’re all so good at geography, maybe you’ll be able to answer this: There are three small islands that we can see from our terrace. Here’s a photo from a restaurant in our beautiful hotel – you have to look carefully to see them. Can anyone name the islands and the famous person who once lived on the largest?
Today we took a little tour of the Amalfi Coast. The entire coastline is dotted with towers which were lookouts for North African pirates who would occasionally raid the peaceful fishing villages along the shores. If a watchman saw a pirate ship he would light a lantern that could be seen by towers in the next villages, and the fishermen would know to head for the hills.
Here are some pretty scenes in Ravello:
Then we wandered around Amalfi. Here is the Cathedral of Amalfi:
When we entered the Cathedral, a man walked toward me with a lovely shawl. I thought that he was selling it, and I admired it politely, but told him that I really wasn’t in the market for a shawl. He was adamant and I admit, I got a little huffy. I wasn’t going to be hoodwinked into buying a scarf, I was there to see the beautiful Cathedral of Amalfi, if he didn’t mind! He did mind, very much. He wasn’t selling the scarves. He pointed angrily at a placard that said, both in Italian and in English, that the Cathedral is a house of God and that those entering are asked to show respect by not having exposed shoulders or chests, or wearing shorts. This is what I was wearing:
Yup, if you look carefully, you can see my underpants sticking out above the top of my shorts.
The man was speaking rapid Italian but Denis and I swear by his words and gestures that he was suggesting we leave the premises and instead visit another place called Our Lady of Perpetual Fellatio. I apologized profusely and donned a sweatshirt and the man allowed us entrance to the beautiful cloisters that led into the cathedral:
Finally, we dined in a beautiful restaurant in Amalfi. We asked the waitress to take our photo. It felt a little corny. But this summer we celebrate our 20th wedding anniversary and this trip is meant to be a sort of second honeymoon. Our first was by car. In Canada. We stayed in cold, musty B&Bs and maxed out our only credit card. Still, it was great.
So is this:
Amalfi
by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow
Sweet the memory is to me
Of a land beyond the sea,
Where the waves and mountains meet,
Where amid her mulberry-trees
Sits Amalfi in the heat,
Bathing ever her white feet
In the tideless summer seas.
In the middle of the town,
From its fountains in the hills,
Tumbling through the narrow gorge,
The Canneto rushes down,
Turns the great wheels of the mills,
Lifts the hammers of the forge.
‘T is a stairway, not a street,
That ascends the deep ravine,
Where the torrent leaps between
Rocky walls that almost meet.
Toiling up from stair to stair
Peasant girls their burdens bear;
Sunburnt daughters of the soil,
Stately figures tall and straight,
What inexorable fate
Dooms them to this life of toil?
Lord of vineyards and of lands,
Far above the convent stands.
On its terraced walk aloof
Leans a monk with folded hands,
Placid, satisfied, serene,
Looking down upon the scene
Over wall and red-tiled roof;
Wondering unto what good end
All this toil and traffic tend,
And why all men cannot be
Free from care and free from pain,
And the sordid love of gain,
And as indolent as he.
Where are now the freighted barks
From the marts of east and west?
Where the knights in iron sarks
Journeying to the Holy Land,
Glove of steel upon the hand,
Cross of crimson on the breast?
Where the pomp of camp and court?
Where the pilgrims with their prayers?
Where the merchants with their wares,
And their gallant brigantines
Sailing safely into port
Chased by corsair Algerines?
Vanished like a fleet of cloud,
Like a passing trumpet-blast,
Are those splendors of the past,
And the commerce and the crowd!
Fathoms deep beneath the seas
Lie the ancient wharves and quays,
Swallowed by the engulfing waves;
Silent streets and vacant halls,
Ruined roofs and towers and walls;
Hidden from all mortal eyes
Deep the sunken city lies:
Even cities have their graves!
This is an enchanted land!
Round the headlands far away
Sweeps the blue Salernian bay
With its sickle of white sand:
Further still and furthermost
On the dim discovered coast
Paestum with its ruins lies,
And its roses all in bloom
Seem to tinge the fatal skies
Of that lonely land of doom.
On his terrace, high in air,
Nothing doth the good monk care
For such worldly themes as these,
From the garden just below
Little puffs of perfume blow,
And a sound is in his ears
Of the murmur of the bees
In the shining chestnut trees;
Nothing else he heeds or hears.
All the landscape seems to swoon
In the happy afternoon;
Slowly o’er his senses creep
The encroaching waves of sleep,
And he sinks as sank the town,
Unresisting, fathoms down,
Into caverns cool and deep!
Walled about with drifts of snow,
Hearing the fierce north-wind blow,
Seeing all the landscape white,
And the river cased in ice,
Comes this memory of delight,
Comes this vision unto me
Of a long-lost Paradise
In the land beyond the sea.
Good heavens, I hope you have cut and paste for that poem!
My beloved and I will also celebrate our 20 years this summer. Our honeymoon was on a motorcycle with a trailer with a “Just Married” sign attached. Stayed in a campground in northern Minnesota. This year, I have my own 2 wheels and we will celebrate at a RESORT…in northern Minnesota. Alas, world travel will have to wait until our 10 year-old can last more than 5 days without his parents. Happy Anniversary Leary’s!
Woo Hoo!!! I said Italy!! I said Italy!!! I’m so proud. I cheated and looked up the famous person who lived there. Was it the ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev? Also, found out that a famous alcoholic beverage called “II Albertissimo” can only be found where you are! Cheers!!! Let me know how it is!!! That’s nice that you’re on your “second honeymoon”. Glad to see and hear that you and Denis are still best buds!!! My husband and me are the same way and it’s hard to find others like that nowdays!!! Hope the week goes slow for the both of you!! Enjoy!!!
Our Lady of Perpetual Fellatio – I LOVE IT!!! When we went to Rome, we went to the Vatican and I had seen in the tour book that they insist that your arms and legs are covered, so I wore capris and a 3/4 sleeve sweater. It was August and I was roasting!! I watched the guards turning women away who were not dressed properly.
As to your question, the small islands that are off the coast of Positano are the Li Galli Islands. I don’t know who lived there, but I believe the islands are legendary from Homer’s Odyssey where the sirens sang and led sailors to their death on the rocks.
Your pictures are beautiful! You and Denis look great! I don’t think it is corny at all to have a picture taken as a remembrance of a lovey trip and a great time together. Thanks again for sharing your time away with us-I wish I was there!!
Ann,
My travel savvy cousin writes that the islands off of Positano are called the Sirenuse ( same name as the famous hotel in the town of Positano). Also known as the Rooster Islands.
Google says that Rudolf Nureyev lived there…
in any event….Happy Anniversary!!
Laurie
I always love the way you can be so wonderfully self-deprecating, Ann. It makes me feel better about myself in the world knowing I’m not alone being less than perfect. Even the lovely you can be traveling in Italy and have your underwear showing
This makes me feel better about spilling my coffee today in my local coffee place while everyone looked on.
Happy Anniversary!! I love to hear of long-lasting love and happy couples.
Enjoy your second honeymoon. Looks like you already are!
Oh Ann:
Please excuse the fellow with the shawl.. reminiscences of the Catholic Church, I am afraid.. kind of funny to other cultures, IF you consider what is going on with the prime minister. Whatever.
I found a web cam of the area..
http://www.campaniameteo.it/streaming.php?id=20
webcam
Looks kind of dull, maybe early dawn.
The islands are:
Gallo Lungo, La Rotonda and La Castelluccia. Together they are called Li Galli islands. …
According to legend, Positano was founded by the God Neptune when he fell in love with the nymph Pasitea. (poem from yesterday?)The town is built in a charming fashion on terraces on the steep rocks of the Monte Comune, and around a small, well-protected bay. The church of Santa Maria Assunta features a dome made of majolica tiles as well as a 13th Byzantine century icon of a black Madonna.
The islands were described in Omero, in the Odyssey Poem, when Ulysse met the Syrens. second reference from yesterday’s poem?)
I have no clue who was the important person who resided in the largest of the three for the longest period of time.
You are not too far from Pompeii or Herculeanum. If I remember correctly, in the olden days, they had to plan their sailing voyages around the monsoon months.. and just think how smart humans are, to be able and manage the terrain, elements, invaders, religions and so forth.
You guys look happy.
And happy anniversary!!
Napoleon got exiled to St. Helena and Elba, right Alan?.
Ann, if you guys have the chance, head on over to the hotel Il San Pietro for lunch on their terrace. Hard to find a bad view anywhere in amalfi but it really is gorgeous and delicious spaghetti alle vongole! Have a great time!
Just breath taking, really too lovely for words. Just curious, where did you guys fly into to start this magically journey?
Ann -
I just got back from Camogli, Italy two weeks ago. It is on the coast north of where you are near Cinque Terre. This is a wonerful time to visit Italy and the weather should be great. Pictures don’t do the surroundings justice Congrats! We were there for our 10 year anniversary.
Got a laugh out of the cathedral incident.
You are making me insanely jealous, wishing I were there. It looks soooo peaceful and beautiful. What a lovely place to celebrate an anniversary!
Hmmm, I’m thinking of places where we could go for our 50th in just 3 more years. I think I’ve found it.
We do appreciate the travelogue. Gorgeous photos.
: )
Beautiful photos Ann — Happy Anniversary!
Am terrible at geography and history but here goes: Napoleon? Island of Elba?
Thank you, thank you, thank you…for a brief moment, I was NOT in foggy cold Boston, exhausted from another day of trial, but breathing deeply and drifting away to Positano…che bella.
Ann:
You must be in one of the most beautiful places on earth! The photos you posted are glorious…breathtaking. It’s lovely that you and Denis are able to celebrate your 20th wedding anniversay in such a location. Thanks so much for thinking of us all here on your blog while in the midst of such splendor and in such perfect company!! Great photo of you and Denis, too.
I’m not even going to attempt to name the three islands. Geography is not one of my strong suits. But I am going to research Positano and the Amalfi Coast as soon as I post this message. Poetry and geography: What will you spark my interest in next, Mrs. Leary?
The story about the shawl and the cathedral is funny–and something I would do, too. I have an unfortunate tendency to lead with meanness in some situations. It’s a gift from my angry, self-absorbed, pompous father–and one I try to overcome every day. Sorry…..strange tangent.
Have a wonderful vacation/second honeymoon, Ann and Denis!! (My last vacation was our honeymoon 13 years ago, so I live vicariously through others’ trips. Owning your own business has its downsides.)
This post is hilarious
aww 2nd honeymoons Congrats
We just celebrated our 23th
I remember on our 10th one my daughter asked us what the secret was to a happy marriage and i said Money. Hubby said we dont have any money and I said yeah i know. Daughter and I laughed gleefully. I really think the secret though is a sense of humor and you both seem to have that!
Oh, how totally and utterly romantic !! Beautiful pictures–you must be having such a great time. I went to Italy when I was in high school and simply fell in love with it. Being German and Irish, I have no family there to connect with, but I’ve always secretly wanted to. It is a beautiful country; have fun, fun, fun !! ( Like you might not be, haha)
Tracy–hope you received my email…I’m ready for Sunday.
Thanks for sharing. I can’t believe what good guessers the bloggers are, wow! Don’t ya love a good vacation?! Camera seems to be working fine. Underpants?? Go commando on vacation!
Awwwww, y’all look so happy!!! Congratulations on your 20th Anniversary!
The hub and I never went on a honeymoon — met and got married 6 weeks later. 13 years in and it’s going pretty well! But now looking at beautiful Italy and how happy you look, I think it may be time to send the kiddos to the grandparents and do it up right.
Hope you have a great time!
Our Lady of Perpetual Fellatio! (Is it too much information to share that snot nearly flew from my allergy-afflicted nose with that one?) What an incredibly stunning locale for a second honeymoon.
Happy, Happy Anniversary, Ann and Denis—-
Wishing you scores more!
(all celebrated in Positano…)
Hi Ann,
I have been reading your blog for about two weeks. I enjoy it very much. What a gorgeous place for a second honeymoon.
Having read an excerpt from A Innocent, A Broad, I have decided to purchase the memoir for my mother, who is an experienced Neonatal Intensive Care Nurse. She has specialized in preemies for over 20 years. Over the years she has met her share of worried parents and has and continue to display the utmost compassion and professionalism. She calls her charges “my babies.” The parents adore her and she frequently receives updates and cards. You can tell I am proud of her. Your book provides in depth perspective of the pained, anxious-ridden parents. I’m am sure she will enjoy it on both a professional and personal level.
We will both appreciate your wit,hurmor, and insights gained from living through a momentous event in your life. Enjoy the rest of your trip!
Annie
Your photos are so beautiful, so serene. Funny about the cathedral, surprised you weren’t struck by lightening upon trying to enter with exposed skin!
Happy Anniversary! We are celebrating 15 years this year. No world travel here either–just a Jackson Browne concert in Canandaigua, Finger Lakes region of NY.
Looking forward to more photos!
This is probably too much information but here is what I found out online.
In the 20th century the small islands of Li Galli in Positano, have come back to the centre of public attention as a result of the famous owners who bought them and, for long periods, lived there.
The first of these was the famous choreographer and dancer Leonide Massine, followed by the unforgettable Eduardo De Filippo and, finally, by another famous Russian dancer: Rudolf Nurejev.
So after many years of solitude, these magical islands have again returned to the very centre of the legends of Positano.
However, more famous than these illustrious people, were the first inhabitants of these islands: the mermaids.
According to legend, this archipelago of small islands including Li Galli” in Positano (they that have many different names : il Gallo lungo, la Rotonda, l’ Isola dei Briganti, l’ Isola di San Pietro, la Castelluccia, Vetara, Galluzzo, l’ Isca), offered refuge to Partenope, Leucosia and Ligia (the three mermaids who were for some half woman half fish and for others half woman half birds).
So it is not surprising that Li Galli were also called Le Sirenuse and with such fame, these islands of Positano, have always been legendary – to such an extent that a famous Roman nobleman, most probably a courtesan of Tiberio, decided to emulate his emperor and bought a villa on an island smaller than Capri : Il Gallo Lungo.
So Happy Aniversary and keep Denis away from those evil Sirens
Best Wishes
Kathy Close
Ann and Denis, Happy Anniversary and many, many more! Thank you for sharing all this beauty with us. It is so exciting to vicariously travel with you! Again, what Beauty!! Keep having a wonderful time.
Beautiful pictures and Happy Anniversary.
Though I have been fortunate enough to have many travels with my hubby since, my husband and I did not have a honeymoon. During our wedding ceremony he was in horrible pain with a bladder infection. Before and after the ceremony, he spent all his time in the bathroom. We actually postponed the wedding date several times because he was too stubborn to go to the doctor to find out what was going on. Ugh, men! Actually, now that I remember, we did have a honeymoon… in the Urgent Care.
Enjoy the rest of your trip!
Happy Anniversary! I thought you were married in the fall! Have a wonderful time!
My husband and I will also be celebrating our 20th in October. We were planning on taking a second honeymoon….but the children want to come along!
Was it Napoleon in Elba?
What a great post – stopped laughing long enough to savor those pictures – beautiful! One question…. how was DL able to go without a cigarette during the flight???
Ann – La Dolce Vita,, what a fabulous place to celebrate 20 years of marriage. Enjoy!
I know that Gore Vidal lived in Ravello for years, down a vicious flight of steps that nearly did in every journalist who came to interview him, which of course pleased him immensely. He is no longer there, as his age makes it impossible for him to navigate the steps as well – I’m sure lots of other well-known people lived there, or nearby, but he is the one I remember.
Such beautiful scenery and pictures. Italy is by far my favorite country I’ve visited. I have to say it beats Detroit where I’m sitting right now in a hotel. I wish I was there right now up north in the lakes region.
Enjoy your trip!
Ann, I think you’ve found the perfect meeting place for the first annual Blogapalooza internationale.
Beautiful locale, beautiful pictures, beautiful (and funny) travelogue, beautiful/good-looking people. As always, thanks for sharing.
Absolutely beautiful!!!
Awwww…..LOVE it!
I agree with everyone else, I believe the key to a happy, long-lasting marriage is having a great sense of humor and liking your partner, along with loving them. All the rest is icing on the cake! 
You both look really happy and relaxed. Happy 20th anniversary! Enjoy your trip, simply stunning there. Thanks for sharing your pictures with us.
Our first honeymoon was a road trip up the Central Coast. We’ve been married 3 years in September, together a total of 8 years this year.
Your pictures and stories brightened the end of another hard day. Thanks so much.
Enjoy the rest of your holiday!
PS: We will understand if you don’t post for the rest of your vacation. We can wait until you are back home for pics and stories.
Well, Christine, our wedding was in August, but we won’t be able to go away then, so we’re here now.
If anyone is trying to send me an email, I’m having a problem with email here and will not receive them. Sorry.
Yes, the islands are known as the Sirenuse Islands, among other names and Nureyev did live there.
Happy Anniversary!!
So glad you are on the Amalfi and loving it! It is the perfect place for a romantic getaway!
Have fun, eat well, and love, love, love (it’s the italian way!!)
Happy second Honeymoon!! Enjoy the rest of your stay!!
So Denis and I share the same birthday(18th) and you got married in August too? My wedding anniversary is the 22nd August….. strange….lol!
ps …
I am married to someone born in August too… August is crazy for us, my daughter’s birthday, my birthday, hubby’s birthday and our anniversary…. is yours like that? LOL!
have fun on your gorgeous vacation!!!
Oh my, such beauty there, gorgeous! I am truly vacationing vicariously through you.
Happy Anniversary. So glad you got the Big Head to let you post a pic of the 2 of you on the blog, it’s gorgeous. Thank you Denis.
I’m still laughing so hard at Our Lady of Perpetual Fellatio! lolololol OMG, you slay me! Is there no end to your wit? I didn’t see your underwear in the pic, btw.
I have to go back & read the poem. It’s long, & you know me & poems!
Lupe, You KNOW I & the others will post pics & details about Sunday! As for shoes, sorry to disappoint, but I will be wearing sneakers! lolol Always do for my day trips into the city, esp after foot surgery in Jan. Maybe Kristin & Barbara & anyone else who may show will wear something fancier. I’ll take pics of our shoes just for you! lolol I’m so sorry you are not feeling well. Best wishes for a speedy recovery.
You are right, I do have a huge passion for this blog. I feel I have found such a wonderful home here, & have made some wonderful friendships. I think Ann attracts & retains like minded people, we’re all on the same wave length, & the positive energy here is wonderful. I have to keep checking throughout the day to see who’s commented!
Most of us seem to find her because of Denis, but we stay because we fall in love with Ann.
I haven’t seen Kristin post, I’m sure she’s really busy getting ready for her trip to NYC, so I’m going to post the details for the AL Blogapalooza!!!
Ann, could you possible post it as a blog entry to be sure everyone sees it?
Date: Sunday June 14
Time: 11 am
Place: Bruno Bakery
506 Laguardia Place
New York City
http://maps.google.com/maps?q=506+Laguardia+Pl+New+York%2C+NY+10012-2591&sourceid=navclient-ff&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1B3GGGL_enUS241US242
It’s between Houston & Bleecker, across from NYU
We’ll have a light brunch, & I’m sure chatter endlessly. I pity the people sitting nearby, as I’m guessing we’ll be quite loud!
We’re bringing our books, so if you have them, bring them!
We’ll take it from there, if anyone wants to explore together, we can do that.
We’ll be sure to take pics & send them & ‘reports’ to Ann.
I hope more of you can make it – it’s going to be a great time!
If anyone has any questions, wants to attend, or thinks they may be able to, email me @ [email protected] We’re all exchanging cell #’s in case there are any problems.
I have a little surprise in store for you Ann, I think you’ll get a little kick out of it.
I think I need to have a word with my husband…we celebrated our 20th anniversary last August and I DID NOT get a 2nd honeymoon in Italy! Hmmm…..
I will show him the pictures, though — they are all gorgeous (beyond words!). I think I know where I want to go for our 25th.
As everyone else has said, THANK YOU for sharing your trip with us. You are so sweet to do so! It’s nice to have a brief mini-vacation (kind of…sort of…) from my desk every morning.
What a wonderful place to be for a second honeymoon. Thanks so much for “including” all of us in your worldly travels, your narration of the trip makes me feel like I am tagging along…..
Love the Cathedral drama – great stories for comedy tours and books! You guys are never far from the next amusing tales to be told!
You both are so deserving of this vacation.
Enjoy the remainder, be safe and love one another with abandon!
On to the next 20 plus!
Tracy you hit the nail on the head,, ” Most of us seem to find her because of Denis, but we stay because we fall in love with Ann. ” This is a great blog and I to have found friendships thru it. Thank you Ann for this wonderful format and hook up with these Kool Kats.
Thank you Tracy. Between finals week for my son, getting my hubby off to California, double packing;( my son comes home from NY only to go off on another trip the next day,) I’m a little scattered. I am excited to meet up in NY. Shoes. That has bugged me all week. How do I look cool but am comfortable and not shout PACIFIC NORTHWEST. I guess I have to shout. Merrills or Ecco sandals.
Congratulations to Ann and Denis. What a wonderful spot to celebrate. And it’s nice to know that that’s still important. Thank you for sharing.
Such a Beautiful poem that blends with the pics and post!!!
What a lovely and romantic place, just perfect for a second honeymoon….
Enjoy!!!!
Ann,
Happy Anniversary!! Beautiful pictures. It’s been the typical rainy, cold, damp “nice day if it don’t rain here in MA. I’m sooo jealous. ENJOY!!
Ann and Denis, Happy Anniverary. It is a beautiful part of the world. Everywhere you turn there is another beautiful photograph. The real challenge is driving in the traffic of Naples. Enjoy.