Usually, before a trip to Europe, I like to reread one of my favorite books – Mark Twain’s classic, Innocents Abroad. Yes, I borrowed this title for my book, An Innocent, A Broad. If you’ve never read Twain’s book, I implore you to do so, (likewise mine).
Mark Twain took a tour of Europe and the Middle East in the 1860s, during a time when it was all the rage for American “society” people to take cruises abroad and he kept a travel log, which was published, I believe, in installments, during his travels. It’s very, very funny in parts, because it is always written from the perspective of a very wise, but sometimes provincial man – Mark Twain himself, and he makes fun of his fellow American travelers as well as the many guides and merchants they encounter in their travels. Today, I managed to find, online, the chapter in which he describes his visit to Pompeii. It is here. I can’t urge you strongly enough to read it.
We visited Pompeii today and shared Mark’s Twain’s surprise at the vastness of the ruined city and were impressed by the rather marvelous quality of life that these ancient Pompeiians enjoyed. They had spas, bathhouses, theaters, brothels. In one of the brothels, there remain a series of numbered frescoes of various sexual acts; a sort of menu of delights from which patrons might choose. These are Kama Sutra-like paintings of sexual positions and couplings that, though I photographed them, I’m too modest to post them here. I had no idea people did this kind of thing back then. I really didn’t think people in my parents’ generation did them. Honestly, I had, until today, believed that Denis and I invented one of the positions. We had no idea that it was quite commonplace 2000 years ago. I will post one of the paintings, as it has me completely baffled. It seems that a serpent’s tail was used in sex play some how, but for the life of me I can’t see the fun.
After Pompeii, we had lunch at Don Alfonso, where the food was incredibly delicious. All the vegetables are grown on their organic farm and they have a very famous wine cellar that you climb down and down and down until you reach a chamber that has existed since the 10th Century.
The owner, Olivia Laccarino, was unbelievably gracious and gave us a tour of her beautiful establishment and a bottle of their organic olive oil to take home with us. Grazie Olivia!
Ooooohh – I love that you’re in Pompeii!! I found it amazing when I was there…. the chariot tracks, bread still in some of the ovens, etc. I remember that one of the larger homes had a mosaic in front of the door of a growling dog – an ancient “beware of dog” sign, of sorts. During our Italy trip, I was having a fling with our tour bus driver (so naughty, I know!) and Pompeii was our last city, then we were off to Greece and I had to part from my yummy Italian amore…. sigh.
I just have one question for right now. Is the Church of Our Lady of Perpetual Fellatio there?????
Oh Ann, thank you for sharing your vacation with us.
I hope that in 10 yrs, at our 20th anniversary, my husband & I can take a vacation like yours – relaxing, interesting and just plain wonderful!
Hi,
Enjoying a break from the controlled, often amusing chaos that is my worklife. I have read little of Twain’s works. Never thought of him a provincial man. Did he spend his life exclusively living in the American South? If he did he must have had the time of his life in Pompei.
I will read the account of his trip to Pompei, paying special attention to the more salacious elements.
I am currently traveling in Steinbeck country. Plunged into East of Eden last night.
Annie M.
I’m laughing here in reference to sex acts etc. when people say,”I didn’t know they did “that” back then. Keep in mind, there’s nothing new under the sun!!
: )
Oh Ann – It has been a long time but Pompeii was AMAZING to me!!!!! That wine cellar must have been fantastic!
Lisa, details please!
Ann, we are blog family here for crying out loud, post the sex pics, too funny! You already told us the kids don’t read the blog. Great posts from the trip.
Ann:
Ahhhhhhhh, you went to Pompei!!!!!!!!!!!!
I studied it. I am familiar with the structures under what now remains. I read everything! I had the best Professor (the one I mentioned is writing a complilation of TEN LARGE books on his explorations/excavations!).
One thing: Maybe… just maybe… Denis would like to take a peak at the grafitis that the old Romans wrote all over the place. They were written in common Latin, BUT there are plenty of translations and they are hillarious. It appears, for what I read, that they were on the SAME wave length as any GOOD American comedian can do (and sell) today. Amazing stuff. I wrote my final on their agriculture which blended with their commerce and it was a lot of fun. Did a presentation, was sooo excited that stumbled all over my Roman findings, but it was a blast to show the class (there were 12 of us and it was called “Classical History” (and then they cancelled the series due to the budget), and the Professor wanted a copy of all of my photos!!
And I will READ anything that Ann says I should read.
I am soo happy about this.
Wait a minute..you are in Pompeii for the Stanley Cup finals?? On this romantically foggy summer evening there is loud yelling coming from my husband’s “office” as I sigh wistfully wishing I were in Italy..oh well, going to the Cape tomorrow, so that will have to do.
I’ve always wanted to visit Pompeii!
I have been commuting 4 hours round trip a couple times a week for a class, so I am in search of some good audio books for the drive. I will have to see if I can find Innocents Abroad. Does anyone have any other good suggestions??
All this talk of sex is making me blush.
Not sure how to come back after the reason I was away,as I told you a month ago my mom was in the hospital, I went through a very hard month.As I explained my mom helped me raise my 3 sons as I have been single for 15 years.Well the boys and I have just come home from here funeral.She found out 3 weeks ago she had termonal lung cancer,she wanted to pass on in her own home, so dad my 2 brothers and sistr along with my aunt did this and I must say as the days past and it got harder it was a decision i was not sure was right.This the most helplessfeeling I have ever had in my life.But as the end came closer I realized it was the right decision.As I laid beside my mom as she passed I had to thank her for letting me be there.I now believe hole heatedly in spirts and the thought of peace and faith.She was trully teaching me right up untill the end.Sorry for this but ladies you have been so much comfort in the past I just need some more thanks
Once I was bathing an elderly gentleman who was a veteran of WWII. He started telling about his time in Italy during the war and how the women performed oral sex on the men. He told me this was something they do in Italy and people in Canada don’t know about it, hmmmm….wonder if they went to that church.
Ann, what a past few days I’ve had enjoying your trip as though I were there myself. Your prose and pictures have made it so realistic…and thank you for including the site where we could read Mark Twain’s chapter. Continue having a wonderful trip….you truly deserve it!
Dearest Cheryl so, so sorry. Ann
Dear Cheryl, My thoughts and prayers are with you
So very sorry for your loss 
Cheryl, I am so sorry for your loss. I hope your Mom’s spirit and grace are present for you as you raise your boys.
Cheryl, please accept my most sincere condolences on the passing of your mom.
Cheryl,
I was so sorry to read about your mom’s passing and what a tough month you’ve had. I hope you found some comfort in knowing that she was able to be home, as she wanted, and that you were with her until the end. My mom’s best friend died suddenly many years ago, and people looked to my mom for guidance. Her response was simple “We have to take care of the living.” That has served me well over the years, and I hope it does you as well. Please be good to yourself, let people help you, and allow your family to take care of each other.
…. so we get on the bus straight from the airport and I catch the eye of our driver – he’s a serious hottie! I’m with a tour full of people (most of whom I know), including my mom and friend, Denise. The flirting starts that night at the Trevi fountain as he (Franco)explains the significance of tossing coins in the fountain. We meet up after everyone has gone to their rooms for the night and do that every night for the next week…. running around to locals only piano bars and clubs and fun places in each city we go to – my favorite being Sorrento. Thankfully, Denise and my mom are tolerant (they both think he’s adorable), and my mom’s only warning (besides reminding me to be careful) was “If I hear you, even ONCE, complain about being tired while we’re on this trip….” I was sneaking into our hotel room at 2 or 3 a.m. with a 7 a.m. wake up call each day. Sure enough we’d meet up on the bus each morning like nothing had happened -the rest of the group had cracked the code by the end of the week. I got a few lectures from the older members of the group about keeping him out too late, their safety, blah, blah, blah. Our last night together was in Pompeii…. I was so sad, you would’ve thought we’d been together for years and he was going off to war! We promised to call, etc. and off the tour went to Greece – taking an overnight ferry. I managed to sleep for 13 straight hours on the top bunk….. missed passing all the Greek Islands, etc.
Franco actually called when I get back home (!!!) and we discussed keeping in touch – did I mention that he spoke broken English and I barely passed my three semesters of Italian at Penn State?? I knew we were doomed when I tried to give him my mailing address over the phone and I kept repeating the “H” for Hoboken…. kind of a problem as there is no “H” in the Italian alphabet.
Oh Cheryl,
Please know that you and your family will be in my prayers.
May God Bless you always.
Sandy
For Cheryl
Thoughts, prayers and comfort all with you — so sorry for your loss. I lost my mom 7 weeks ago. While I know she was ready and at peace, some days are really hard. If there is anything I can do to help, here is my email: [email protected].
Ann, each day your blog and bloggers have lifted my spirits, and your poem continues to comfort — thank you.
Cheryl- I am so sorry. May flights of angels take her to her rest.
Cheryl:
I just read your posting from early this morning. My deepest sympathies to you. From your writings, I know you and your mother were extremely close. This fact will provide you with an astounding amount of comfort in the next days, weeks, months, and years. When you wrote of lying next to her as she died, my heart clenched in pain. Your assisting her in being able to die in her own home was a deeply loving gift. Don’t we all hope for this scenario should we be aware of our approaching deaths?
My thoughts are with you, Cheryl, and your family. As you well know, in addition to your own dear family, this is a good place to pour out your grief, pain, and thoughts. I received much aid from the wonderful, caring people on this blog during my time of confusion and sadness a month ago. I wish you peace of mind and solace from your loved ones.
Cheryl — so very sorry for you and your family, especially your boys. I hope you remember the fun, good, silly and happy times you had with your Mom and let them wash over you during periods of grief. Thinking of you — Caroline
Aw….thanks Lisa. Very romantic!
Cheryl, I haven’t been around the blog for very long but have read your posts. I am so saddened to hear about your mom. My grandmother passed 2 years ago and my aunt was hit particularly hard by her death as she was her main caregiver. She (my aunt) wrote beautiful essays each month for a year with memories and happenings that proved her mother was with her all the time. We all appreciated her thoughts so much, they helped all of us. I think it helped her the most to find peace. I hope the same for you.
Christine Walker
Cheryl, I’m so glad to hear from you. I asked about you a few days ago.
I am so sorry you lost your Mother. I understand that it was hard for you to let her die in her own way, but I’m glad you came to realize it was the right thing. Being at home among your family is so important when you know the end is near. Your telling of lying with her as she passed touched me so deeply, you don’t know how much. You’re right, she was teaching you that it was ok to let her go, and that even though it will be very hard, you are strong, and you will get through this. You will always be thankful that you were there with her as she passed. I couldn’t make it in time when my Dad died in Feb, I was 20 minutes too late, coming from work. I cried as I asked him why couldn’t you wait for me????? At least my Mom & sister were there. For whatever reason, I wasn’t meant to be. By the time my sister called me & told me I’d better get there, it was too late.
Anyway, I am so glad to hear from you, and we are all thinking of you, and sending you loving, supporting thoughts to help you get through this time. You WILL get through it.
Dear Cheryl,
My deepest sympathy and prayers go out to you. I understand, as so many others before me have said, exactly what you are going through. My mother was diagnosed with advanced terminal colon cancer just 3 weeks before she died. She was a nurse and I’m sure she knew things weren’t right with her health, but she didn’t tell any of us. My father had already passed away, and she had lost her will to fight. It might not feel like it right now, but I think you were very lucky to be there with her as she passed. My sister and I were with my mom day and night, until that very last day. She died with my brothers there with her. Knowing my mother, it was probably her way of sparing us more pain.
Know that you are in the thoughts and prayers of all here; let us know how we can help. Take care of yourself…Barbara
For Cheryl,
So sorry for your loss. I hope this helps, and it may not for a few months, as the immediate pain is so intense. When I lost my mom I found it to be a very lonely experience, no one knew how I felt, even though they said they did, I was her daughter and only I knew how I felt. I found the pain and feeling of loss never goes away. As time passes and other meaningful life experiences occur, the pain has become a dull ache that I have learned to live with. Remember, accepting support is a sign of strength.
Cheryl,
So sorry for your loss,, my thoughts and prayers are with you and yours thru this difficult time. I learned after my dad passed several years ago, that you won’t see rainbows without the rain. I hope you see rainbows in your grief.
Oh Cheryl, I am so sorry to hear about your mom.
Dear Cheryl, I can only add to the sympathy and prayers offered for you by the others. It is a huge loss and I will keep you and your family in my thoughts.
Sorry – just realized I posted my rambling story here earlier instead of on the “Michaelangelo” entry. Totally inappropriate – sorry Cheryl and Ann…..
Dear Cheryl,
I am so saddened to hear of your mom’s passing. I feel your pain and hurt, as I am in the midst of taking care of my mom, who is at home and it seems as if her body is giving out on her. Time will tell, but it’s a very painful process. I, like you, feel really lucky to be with her and will be with her until she doesn’t need me there.
Please know I have you and your family in my thoughts. Big hugs.
Courtney
Cheryl, I am so sorry about the loss of your mom…..
For her to have passed with you lying beside her is precious honor a child could give their mother….
Ann, I am glad you are having a great time in Italy, your descriptions, pics, poems have me right there on the journey, thank you so much for sharing…
Don’t forget to bring home some of that Italian wine!!
Hi Ann,
In reference to the question you posed concerning the meaning of the serpent tail in the Pompeii brothel painting… it is actually a roman fertility image.
As an added note… along the wall of the same brothel in Pompeii, there is actually a street-side painting of a snake; kind of a “Hey sailor… come on in” welcome.