Yesterday we took a little tour of the Tuscan countryside, courtesy of a very charming Florentine driver named Salvatore.
First we visited the beautiful medieval town of Siena which is famous for Il Palio – the summer horse races that take place in the astonishingly small town square. I had seen the races on American television and have always been amazed at the talented jockeys who ride the horses bareback. Yesterday, Salvatore explained that there are 14 horses in Il Palio – each representing a contrade or district in the city. People become very competitive with each other during the season and good friends will suddenly not speak to each other if they are from a competing region.
“Grown men will cry, sometimes for days if their horse loses,” Salvatore informed us.
“Oh wow, they really bet a lot of money on that race, huh?” I replied.
Salvatore looked at me as if I was insane. “Money?” he said, “Yes, they may lose money but that is not why they cry! They cry because they have lost their …” after searching for the correct English word, he finally thrust his hands up in exasperation and said, “Honor!”
Denis and I walked all around the ancient streets of Siena and San Gimignano and apparently, in the spirit of Il Palio, Denis decided to always be about twenty lengths on front of me.
Such an amazing place..my tour guide told me that she was in a “mixed” marriage-two different contrades; the in-laws would not speak to each other when her family contrade “won” the Palio. Also advised the teams cheat as much as possible-proud of it. The poor horses!
Thanks again for an interesting piece and great photos. I love how photographs can transport you to another place even if you are not their yourself. Thanks.
Love Siena. It’s a very hard city to drive into: if you drive into the wrong city gate, there are some places you literally cannot get to without going back out and re-entering another city gate. I was there once just after the Palio, and the banners were still up, there was some kind of big ceremony in the square with all the competing neighborhoods, it was very exciting and beautiful.
Not sure what Denis was up to, but it made for some nice pictures. Thank you for sharing your trip.
Sigh. Beautiful photos. Isn’t Italy just glorious.
Those shots of Denis look like an Armani ad. Cool.
Please tell us what you’ve been eating. It’s almost lunchtime here, and all I can think about is food.
Mangia mangia!
True re: Armani ad, Ais!
It appears Denis is acting like he doesn’t know you. Did you embarrass him again Ann? hehe
Love the info on Il Pallio. Honor!
My understanding of the Palio is that riders are also allowed to strike or unseat one another, all while galloping bareback. Is that true?
BTW, Denis could easily gain twenty lengths you while you stop for photo ops. And he knows the pics will read well with a figure or two in them for scale
Please thank him for us.
Oh, Italy is so beautiful! And the things I’m learning on this blog, fascinating. I knew nothing about the races. I wonder how those horses are shod, if at all.
Loving all the photos and thinking we’ll get there one day. Thanks for sharing them! And I know this is very delayed, but a huge congrats on the book – can’t wait to purchase one!
maybe Denis is like my husband who gets tired of me stopping to window shop or explore every nook and cranny…….Sienna & San Gimignano are so amazing & I cannot imagine racing around that piazza bareback or with a saddle! Bet Mark could do it! Thanks for sharing; you’re making me long to go again.
Bellissimo!! My husband always walks ahead of me like I am an American Geisha trying to keep up. =)
Sounds like fun. My husband often walks ahead of me too! I’ll have to put Sienna and San Gimignano on my bucket list. Loved exploring your neck of the woods last weekend. Steep Rock was gorgeous and the people very friendly. The tunnel, suspension bridge and the view of the clam shell were all great! Denise – I think it would be worth the stop for you, it is pet friendly with lots of brooks and the river for Luke to have a drink. I did the yellow trail, very nice!
Why must men walk so fast? My husband is always way ahead of me unless he is turning around to give me a look of annoyance. What is the hurry? It has to be something in their DNA
Actually, large groups of men get together regularly in top-secret locations all across the country and decide what thoughtless acts they can commit that will piss off their wives, girlfriends, lovers, significant others, etc. It sounds like your husbands (and Denis) were part of the group that decided that walking ahead of their wives at high speed would be particularly annoying….
We ate so much last night that the snap on these crazy leather legging things I was wearing wouldn’t close after our dinner and I was stomping all over the city in high boots and pants that were falling down. We had lots of pasta (of course) and the steak that Florence is so famous for. Thick and rare, grilled to perfection. Covered in sea salt and pepper. Spinach with olive oil and garlic. This delicious cake with a merengue crust filled with white goodness. Yum.
Ok, that was meant to be in response to a question about what we were eating. I believe it was Aislinnpitch. But very funny Alan!
I love the pictures.. so pretty. I think it’s funny you can actually tell it’s Denis. Who can miss his walk..Tall man and blonde.. Walking a good ways ahead. Italy is gorgeous. So much to see and do. I can imagine the time you’re having there.. Beautiful area. Thanks for sharing!!
My husband actually wanders off from me. Just takes off in a different location and then I have to try and find him. Must be that DNA like Tammy said. Siena is magical.
Gorgeous pics, but now i want a pic of your crazy leather leggings!!!
Ann, the Palio is not a good event for Italy, just like the Spanish Corrida! We are not proud of it: horses hurt, it’s a silly tradition! I hate it and the most Italians do! Only the inhabitans of Siena defend it. We are doing what is possible to stop it. It’s a SHAME!
Hi Ylenia, I was wondering if the horses are ever injured or killed. We are loving your beautiful country again. Ciao
Yes Ann, they are shot if they fall and break a leg and this happens each time! Maybe this was not told you! It’s not something we should be proud of, but yes, we are pround of our country, there’s a lot to see – and to eat
– and a life is not enough to visit each of our cities and small towns, each one with its own history and tradition. In those pictures it seems you are walking through the streets of Ortona a mare, my medieval birth town. Enjoy the visit!
Thank you for those shots of your husband’s ass. It reminds me that his buns were described on RM as two grapefruits. LOL I always wondered if that description came from you.
p.s. I am divorcing my husband; he deleted the last Rescue Me from our tivo.