Beef, Bass, New Mothers

Not long ago, I had the pleasure of sitting next to Michael Pollan and his lovely wife Judith at a dinner party. Michael is the author of the best-selling books, The Omnivore’s Dilemma and In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto and he is as gracious and engaging a dinner companion as he is a writer. It was one of those affairs in which you are given a choice of a meat or a fish entree – in this instance the choice was Sea Bass or Filet Mignon. I gave the waiter my selection of the Sea Bass but in mid-sentence I cringed at the thought that Michael might think me wildly self-serving by ordering the reportedly endangered Sea Bass instead of the beef. But hadn’t he written that brilliant piece in the New York Times Magazine about what happens to beef from the moment the calf is born until it arrives on our plates? That article put me off beef for some time. After I ordered, it was Michael’s turn and I realized that I was about to witness the author of the Omnivore’s Dilemma faced with the very dilemma itself. The Sea Bass? Or the Beef? Support the fish by ordering the cruelly raised beef? Or reduce the demand for mass-produced beef by ordering the fish? Michael, I hope, will forgive me for reporting that he ordered the Sea Bass. When I asked him about his choice, he said, “I really don’t like to order beef unless I know where it comes from.”
Now, neither do I.
The very next day, I received a call from Libby Fitzgerald inviting me to visit some new calves. Libby, her husband Terry and their three sons own Greyledge Farm here in Bridgewater, CT, and they raise natural, grass-fed beef cattle. It was calving time and Libby said that I might get to see a calf being born that day. When I arrived in her barn, there were no births in progress but there were several sweet, long-lashed newborns lying beside their doting mothers. The Fitzgerald’s barn is so pristine and the cows are such amiable, welcoming gals that I was almost overcome with the urge to nestle down in the straw with them to swap birth stories. I waited until I was out of earshot to place my beef order with the farm manager. Denis is a lover of red meat, and the first time I cooked him a Greyledge Farm steak, I'm not kidding, he nearly wept with joy. Natural beef really tastes better than the mass-produced, hormone-pumped stuff. Now when we drive by the Fitgerald's farm, Denis and the dogs stare out the car window at the grazing cattle and they all drool and whine.














